5 Days in El Salvador
El Salvador is the smallest, most densely populated country in Central America. The country is roughly the size of the US State of Massachusetts, but packs many sights and things to do! There is a stigma in the United States that El Salvador is an unsafe country, but we spent 5 days in this beautiful country and did not feel unsafe once. We found plenty of things to do and we felt like we weren’t able to fit everything in! The country is full of history and natural sites to see.
Day 1 – Joya de Ceren Archeological Park, Santa Ana, Tazumal and Lake Coatepeque
Today was a packed day! We started the day at the UNESCO Heritage Site of Joya de Cerén. The site is home to a settlement from the Mayan period of Salvadorian history. It is described as the “Pompeii of the Americas” because the village was buried in the eruption of the Loma Caldera around 600AD. The site has been important for the study of ancient Mayan history, especially everyday life in an agricultural community. We were able to see structures where they slept, where shamans performed ceremonies, and where they stored grains and other crops. Many people believe there is more to be discovered at the site, but unfortunately there is not a lot of money put into this excavation.
Following Joya de Ceren, we visited the city of Santa Ana. We stopped at Parque Libertad, where we saw the the Cathedral of Santa Ana and the Municipal Palace. We walked around and saw many vendors selling foods and souvenirs. It was a Sunday so the square was filled with families and people enjoying the nice day. Additionally, there was a soccer game going on later in the day so we saw plenty of supporters walking around before going to the game.
After walking around Santa Ana, we visited another ancient Mayan site in Tazumal. The site is home to an ancient Mayan Pyramid and Temple. Our tour guide with El Salvador Positive Tours was so knowledgeable and explained the ancient Mayan rituals and purpose behind the structures. We truly learned a lot about the 3 major civilizations in El Salvador: the Olmecs, Mayans, and Pipil.
We ended the day with a lovely lunch overlooking Lago de Coatepeque. The view was amazing and the food was excellent!
Day 2 – Santa Ana Volcano Hike
Santa Ana Volcano is one of 5 active volcanoes in El Salvador. It is the highest volcano in the country, reaching 7,540ft. We had to walk a little ways (maybe 10 minutes) to a hut where we paid and had access to bathrooms. After that, we began the trail. This trail is fairly difficult; you are hiking a volcano. However, it is a more gradual incline hike. Our guide told us that he typically divides the hike into 6 sections. The first was the 10 minute walk from where the van dropped us off to the hut. The second section was from the hut to a tower that overlooks the Lago de Coatepeque. Unfortunately, it was very cloudy so we didn’t get to stop and see what I’m sure are breathtaking views. The next sections were overlooks where we were able to see the other volcanoes. Our guide told us that the author of book the Little Prince drew inspiration from the three peaks in the area.
The top 1/3 of the hike is very rocky and rough. It was definitely an uphill battle but it was nice to be able to see the top and work towards the goal. Once we arrived at the top, we were able to refuel and enjoy the view of the caldera. It was so cool to see the bubbling water and know that the volcano was active. This hike was definitely a challenge but totally worth it. It wasn’t the most difficult hike we’ve ever done but it was a great workout.
After, we had lunch on Lago de Coatepeque again. This time we ate on the shore of the lake instead of overlooking it. The food was excellent and Brian had a traditional whole fried fish!
Day 3 – Ruta de las Flores, Coffee and Hotsprings
Today was a nice break from walking around and hiking! We drove from San Salvador to Nahuizalco, one of the towns along Ruta de las flores. We stopped at the cathedral and walked through a market. The town is bustling on the weekend but since we were there on a Tuesday it was fairly quiet. Along the way to our next stop, there was a gravity hill, where it looked like the car was going downhill but when the guide put his car in neutral and took his foot off the petals, the car rolled uphill! It was a pretty cool experience.
In Concepcion de Ataco we went to Carmen Estate. We toured the coffee production process and got to taste the coffee produced by the plant. It was an interesting tour and we learned a lot. The coffee was also delicious and smooth. We’re definitely going to make an effort to purchase Salvadoran coffee!
There was a ton of roadwork being done along Ruta de las Flores and we sat in the car for a long time in some spots. Salavdorans will LOVE to tell you how great their roads are. And for the most part, they were! Luckily, our tour guide for the day was happy to answer our questions and because of the traffic we got to ask more questions about general life in El Salvador. For example, we learned that the population in El Salvador is very young, with about 60% of the population between 18-40. The younger population is attempting to diversify the economy away from the traditional agricultural exports. This is part of the reason why El Salvador recently adopted Bitcoin as a currency. The country is also making more investments in geothermal energy, because a large portion of the country is active volcanoes! It was a very insightful conversation and this is why I recommend taking tours with locals. They can provide a more personal perspective on real issues!
After coffee and traffic, we arrived at Santa Teresa Hot Springs. We enjoyed lunch and Lucas got to spend time playing in the hot springs! He didn’t get in the hottest one, but did enjoy relaxing in a pool that was equivalent of a hot bath.
When we got back to Zona Rosa for the night, we ventured over to a local brewery for dinner. Cadejo Brewery was right next to our hotel. It was super easy to walk to and came recommended by a lot of people! The beer was excellent and the food was typical bar food. We definitely recommend checking it out if you are in San Salvador!
Day 4 – El Tunco and Tamanique Waterfalls
Today’s trip was so beautiful! Our first stop was Tamanique, where we hiked to the cascadas. The hike down was super simple, and took us maybe 40 minutes down. There was a family that went down around the same time as us and it was super cool to see them hang out and set up their lunch, much like one would see at a local river or lake in the States. Lucas got to play in the water and we relaxed and enjoyed people watching. The hike back to the top was much more challenging. We stopped quiet a bit, but our guide (who was also the same guy that hiked Santa Ana with us!) was super understanding and he happily made small talk with me while we recovered.
After, we drove from Tamanique to lunch overlooking the pacific ocean at Beto’s Restaurante- La Libertad. We ate ceviche and a fish fillet with a creamy jalapeno sauce that was so good!
Finally we arrived at El Tunco beach! The little town was full of souvenir shops and restaurants. We sat at a bar where we ordered drinks and watched Lucas and Brian play in the water! The only downside to El Tunco is the fact that the beach itself is very very rocky. I would have watched them play on the sand while reading, but instead I had to stand at the bar’s entrance and watch. It was kind of disappointing, but it is more of surfing town than a play in the ocean town. I would recommend a beach town in the southern part of the country.
Day 5 – San Salvador
Our final day in El Salvador was spent exploring the capital city, San Salvador. We hung around the hotel in the morning and then met with a tour guide who would take us around San Salvador.
We parked near El Rosario Church and then walked around Libertad Plaza. Since this was a weekday, it wasn’t as busy as it is on a weekend. We walked from Libertad Plaza to the Civic Square, where you can see the National Palace and the Cathedral of San Salvador. We toured the National Palace which was very much similar to the national palaces that we have seen in Europe. Afterwards, we went into the crypt of the Cathedral, where Monsenor Oscar Romero is buried. There is information about Monsenor Romero and the assassination that took place at the beginning of El Salvador’s civil war.
We ended the day overlooking San Salvador in Antiguo Cuscatlan before heading to our late night/early morning flight at the airport. The airport is about 45 minutes from San Salvador but it’s very easy to get an Uber, taxi, or airport shuttle to and from the airport.
Overall
Our family truly enjoyed our time in El Salvador. The country is beautiful and perfect for outdoorsy families. If you’re looking for hiking, surfing, or other water sports, definitely add El Salvador to your list!